Fes to Meknes.
I was in no hurry to leave this morning, as trains to Meknes run frequently, and it’s only a 45-55 minute journey, and I could get a ticket at the station. I figured I’d get to the station around 10, which I did, and took a cab as it was too far to walk.
I caught the 10:35 train, second class, my preference, and arrived in Meknes around 11:30. I did get nervous at one point as the train was meant to arrive in Menkes at 11:09, according to the ticket, and at that point it clearly had no intention of stopping, and I couldn’t see anything ahead that resembled a city. I had double checked, but now was wondering if I was on the right train (although I knew I was). The three Moroccan women in my compartment, who were having a great time, talking and laughing, and laughing some more, assured me, with some difficulty in communication but in a very warm hearted way, that I was on the right train, and we were soon going to arrive at the station. When we arrived and as I left the compartment, in broken English they welcomed me to Morocco. Nice.
I liked the town immediately upon stepping out of the train station. Bright, open, Moroccan but contemporary, and not crowded or noisy. With a population of about 550,000, Meknes is one of the four imperial cities, along with Fes, Rabat, and Marrakesh, and was the seat of the dynasty of Moulay Ismail, who ruled Morocco from 1672 to 1727. Although the town was founded around the 11th century, the city today was built by Moulay Ismail between 1672 to 1727, after he decided to make it his imperial capital, and surrounded the city with massive walls, gates, palaces, gardens, granaries and military installations. But, unlike Fes, the city and its walls, buildings, and streets are clean, spacious, and open. It’s also far less crowded and busy, and seemingly much less touristy.
My riad is in the Meknes medina, and again too far to walk, so I caught a cab, which was only $4, but actually cost ne more than the train fare from Fes. Once again, I had a friendly and good humored driver, and he dropped me off just outside of the riad and wished me bon voyage. As the day went on, I noticed how many people speak French fluently in Meknes, but little English.
Once I figured it out, the Riad Palais Didi was just a few minutes walk, inside the medina.
This was again a beautiful riad, with a very beautiful, ornate, and large and well lit central courtyard, and large rooms all around its perimeter. It’s perfectly symmetrical, so the problem was, once I left my bedroom to walk around the place a little and then go up the twisting tiled staircase to the open roof garden, I had no idea which bedroom was mine. The only thing different with respect to each of the four sides surrounding the courtyard were the plants by each room, and once I figured out which room was mine I used the plants as a guide. At that point, though, I had no idea how to get out of the courtyard to exit the riad.
Like the two other riads I’ve stayed at, this is monasterial. You can slightly hear the sounds of the outside world, but for the most part it’s silent and tranquil, with only the periodic sound of a door opening or closing somewhere in the building, or some sound equally as fleeting. I also booked a riad for my first two nights in Marrakech, but haven’t booked for my last three, after I return from the three-day Sahara tour. I think I’ll book a hotel, and not another riad. They’re just too tranquil. I feel I’ve taken a vow of silence, and so has everyone else. It also feels as though I’m completely alone here.
With my usual 20-20 hindsight, I should have planned to either get to Meknes far earlier or stayed an additional night, as by the time I arrived, caught a taxi, and got to my riad, there just wasn’t enough time to go visit Volubilis, which is what I’d hoped to do. Volubilis is is the site of a major Roman city dating back to 44 ACE, after the Romans occupied the country, and one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. But it was not to be. So, no Volubilis, and instead I’d be touring Meknes by foot.
Although the medina here is between 800–1,000 years old, it’s been rebuilt and modified many times, and the current medina dates back between 300 to 350 years. New by comparison with the Fes medina. Menkes medina resembles Fes’s only insofar as there are narrow alleys and lanes, as well as covered indoor markets, but that’s as far as it goes. It’s far smaller and much, much less busy, and there is no labyrinth of alleys and streets to contend with that are both claustrophobic and go on and on, seemingly forever. It is also more spacious and much cleaner. You can enjoy the medina and its covered areas and alleys without feeling penned in.
Meknes is a lovely city. I walked around for several hours, again in the hot sun, today reaching around 97 degrees. and visited the spots recommended on line, including the extremely ornate and intricate Bab Mansour gate at the Place el-Hedim, and the large and contemporary square opposite, the Place Lalla Aouda, filled with shops, restaurants, and bars, also used for public events, performances, and festivals. A major attraction is the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, which of course is huge and impressive, with beautiful interior decoration.
On the Place Lalla Aouda, there is classic moderately large indoor market, the Marché Couvert de Lahdim (Lahdim Covered Market), which has a rich array of fruits, baked goods, meats, spices, nuts, and about everything else you’d expect to see in a market like this. Unlike the markets in Fes, here the goods were covered in plastic wrap to ensure the flies and wasps couldn’t get to them. Beautiful and colorful place.
A very nice town. My final stop for the day was the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, conveniently enough just minutes away from the Riad Palais Didi. The word opulent comes to mind.
Before heading back to the riad though, I spent some more time in an area not far from the hotel, full of small restaurants and shops, and just hung for a bit, watching life go by. As I walked back to the riad, past the Mausoleum, I noticed a growing gathering of storks perched on the ruins of old defensive walls on the other side of the road. Apparently, they’re common in Morocco, and particularly around old cities where there are plenty of places for them to nest and roost.
I finally returned to my riad, wrote my blog, and eventually went to bed.
Tomorrow, I catch a morning train for the long journey to Marrakech, something I’ve wanted to do since Marrakech Express was released back in 1969. Very romantic, except I don’t expect to see any ducks or pigs, or hear any chickens call, or see an animal carpet wall to wall, although I bet that’s the way it was in 1969.
Wouldn’t you know we’re riding on the Marrakesh Express, they’re taking me to Marrakesh. All aboard the train. I only wish Bev was taking the journey with me tomorrow, American ladies five-foot tall in blue (except Bev was five foot two).
Until then, good night
