Cambria to Monterey.
We started our day a little earlier, and headed back to Cambria. The mist was still pretty heavy and hanging over the ocean and shoreline, although by 9:30 had substantially cleared but nonetheless didn’t actually fully blow off for hours, even though the weather warmed into the 80s for a nice warm day.
We ate some breakfast at Linn’s, which is a very nice place, and they have those delicious Olallieberry pies, a slice of which I had with by meal, of course. It’s a nice place, and was doing well on a Sunday morning.
We came into Cambria from a different direction this time, and I realized that although Bev and I visited all of Cambria, when I was here just a few weeks ago I only really visited the east end of town, where Linn’s, Robin’s (where we ate last night), and some great stores are located, and didn’t catch the west and northwest end of Main Street. The same thing happened today, although we came in from the west and saw that whole other end of Main Street, but after eating and going into a few of the shops, and buying a few things actually, we wanted to get back to San Simeon and visit the elephant seal beach and take a hike. before then heading north toward Monterey. So, again, I never really visited all of the town, which is such a nice place… but I guess that will be for another time.
We visited a really great antique (and all sorts of stuff) store, and then my favorite garden at Spellbound Herbs, although if didn’t particularly impress Russ, and then Cinnabar, which is not only a great store but has pretty good prices, I realize. I am sorry, though, that we didn’t get to spend more time in town and explore the town in full.
But, instead, we headed back north to San Simeon, along the Cabrillo Highway, route 1, to the Boucher Trailhead just a few miles outside of the town, and walked a little on the beach, although couldn’t really find the actual trail. Still, it was lovely, and the waves were really crashing into the beach… the sea was angry that day, my friends.
We turned back south for just a couple of miles, heading to the Elephant Seal viewing point along the beach. First we were peering into the ocean itself, for a glimpse of the seals, but then a quick look to the right revealed there they were, just sprawled on the beach, one on top of another, using each other as pillows and mattresses, sunning themselves, and occasionally flapping up their fins or howling.
Russ initially had hoped to visit Hearst Castle, which is in San Simeon, which I had also hoped to do a few weeks back, but you can’t simply drive up to it, atop the hill, but have to instead get a ticket, take a shuttle up, etc., and with just a few days on our hands, there just wasn’t enough time. I have to admit, I’m not that interested, although next time I’m this way I’ll spend more time in Cambria, as well as visit Hearst Castle, and while I’m at it spend some more time in Los Angeles, and visit the Getty, for instance, which I would like to see.
Our other hope, which would have been really nice, was to travel up to Big Sur, and past that to Carmel and Monterey, on route 1, all along the glorious coast, but route 1 is closed about 30 miles or less north due to landslides and other problems, so we had to head back down to Cambria, and then wheel around to the north, and start heading up route 101 , which is more scenic than interstate 5, but not much more. Lot of farmland both along 5 and 101, but still not too interesting or dramatic as roadside landscapes go.
Driving away from the beach, we saw what looked like a Golden Eagle sweeping off the beach and across our car, and then back toward the ocean. No way to take a photo, but that would have been spectacular. Not everyday I see an eagle.
We got into Monterey maybe around 4:15, and first drove around this harbor town, made famous by John Steinbeck in his novel, Cannery Row, but also famous for its beauty, its diverse marine life, its beautiful harbor, its wonderful aquarium, and its many restaurants, riddled around the harbor.
The harbor and marina was filled with moored boats, and Fisherman’s Wharf was filled with people, looking in stores and looking to eat or drink, or just wander around. We found a place on the wharf, which is celebrating its 179th birthday, reserved a table and then took a walk for about an hour before returning to eat.
We walked around the harbor, toward the Aquarium and Cannery Row, but also toward the incredible noise of the harbor seals, although from where we were we couldn’t see them. As we got to the other side of the harbor, we first saw the pelicans… and lots of them, hanging out on the rocks, flying, and swooping over the bay as they fished.
And then we saw the seals. Like this morning, when we were staring into the ocean looking for a glimpse of the Elephant Seals only to find they were all hanging around with one another on the beach in plain view, we stared peering into the bay for the seals, which we could see were swimming and seemingly playing in the water, momentarily bobbing their heads and bodies up and down before going back under.
But then, a few more feet along the bay, we could really see where all the seal noise was coming from. Dozens and dozens of seals just lying on the rocks and shore, right up to the road, lying on top of one another, snoozing and laying out in the sun, sprawled all over each other.
I’m only sorry we didn’t see any of the Sea Otters that hang around the harbor.
We walked around Monterey a little more, toward the aquarium and Cannery Row, and then, as it was starting to darken and cool a little, back to Fisherman’s Wharf where dinner awaited.
A splendid meal, of which I’ve quite a few with Russ over the years, and back to our hotel. Tomorrow, we’ll first first head south, down through Carmel, and Pebble Beach to Big Sur, along route 1, and then turning around to head north to San Francisco, stopping in Santa Cruz as we near the city.