Through Virginia City and onto Reno, Nevada.
Each morning, Kaye has her morning coffee, which of course reminds me of Bev and her morning coffee. Before we head out this morning, this photo, one of my favorites, from not that long ago, in 2019 on our trip to Idaho, with Marguerite.
Just before we leave Ely for Reno, heading across what promises to be a loooong drive across Nevada route 50, called the loneliest road in America, here’s a look at our trip from Denver where Kaye joined me, to Reno, where we’ll be at the end of today, around 1500 miles so far. Me… I hit the 4,000 mile mark sometime yesterday, on the way to Great Basin.
We left Ely, taking route 50, first to Virginia City, Nevada, and from there onto Reno, a journey of about 330 miles. It was indeed a long drive, but good company with Kaye and some great scenery that changed somewhat along the way, but often beautiful, arriving in Virginia City around 3:30.
The Loneliest Road in America.
It’s not really clear why they call route 50 the loneliest road, because there are several small towns along the 300 plus miles to Reno. Nevertheless, although there’s a fair amount of traffic, much of the time there are only one or two cars or trucks (or motorcycles) along the way. That means long stretches with hardly any traffic, and for the likes of me, that means driving fast. Much of the time, around 85 mph, but at times hitting speeds as high as 110 mph. This car can really move, and accelerates quickly and easily, although at those speeds it’s burning gas. We made sure to fill up in those small towns along the way to avoid yesterday’s “adventure.” 😊
One of those small towns, and a nice little town, is Austin, about 150 miles west of Ely, and close to half way to Virginia City.
We arrived in Virginia City in the mid-afternoon. I’ve been here once before, but forgot how small, and authentic, the town is, with many of the buildings along the historical main (and basically only) street dating back to the 1870s and 80s, and still very much an Old West town in appearance and feel. The main street is paved of course, and back “then” would have been dirt, but the sidewalks remain wooden boardwalks, much as they were in the 1880s.
We headed out of town, and traveled along a twisty and picturesque mountain road, heading down into the valley, and toward Reno. Another great road, but this one definitely called for cautious and slow driving.
Along the way, at a scenic overview, we talked to a guy from Texas, who’s been travelling with his dog in his self-contained van, and he put me to shame. Today, I hit 4,500 miles since I left Amherst 25 days ago. He’s driven 55,000 miles this year, and travelled all across the states. He has no plans to stop. I wondered if he had lost his wife as well, and thought hard about his not having plans to end his trip, but just keep going. It made me wonder about my own future and plans.
I also thought a lot about Bev today, and those last moments, triggered by some music we were listening to. Goodnight, by the Beatles: “Close your eyes and I’ll close mine, good night sleep tight. Now the sun turns out his light, good night sleep tight. Dream sweet dreams for me, dream sweet dreams for you.” Very upsetting, even now, as I write those words. 💔
Reno, it turns out, is a great town, the Biggest Little City in the World, some say. 😊
Our hotel location, just a guess on my part when I booked it, turned out to be in just the right location, and a few minutes walk from the Truckee River walk, which is another beautifully designed and well-maintained walkway, with great sights all along the way. We first walked by the rather gaudy, but iconic, and sometimes a little sleazy, casino downtown area, arriving within maybe 10 minutes at the Truckee River.
The river walk is lovely, with nice street art and sculptures, nicely designed green spaces, open air theater, and restaurants dotted around the walk.
We ate at a very nice outdoor upscale restaurant, the Wild River Grill, and afterwards continued our walk along the Truckee River, enjoying the open spaces and sculpture garden, as well as the views along the river walk.
After eating and walking, on this very lovely and just right evening, we watched a public open performance at the Pioneer Center for the Performing Arts, which included Mexican and Indigenous dances, as the dusk descended. The colors appear a little garish in the photos below, due to the on stage spotlights, but it gives a sense of one of the performances.
Afterwards, around 9 pm, we headed back to the hotel, and enjoyed the riverwalk and downtown area at dusk and in the growing darkness.
This is my last overnight on this road trip with Kaye. Tomorrow, we head to Covelo, California, where Bev and I first lived together as a couple (rather than as close and loving friends), and where Bev had her first teaching job, and then back to Kaye’s apartment in Berkeley, where we’ll be tomorrow night. We’ll have a full day of driving tomorrow, but tonight is our last night on the road together. It’s been a great 11-day trip with Kaye, and couldn’t have been better. I’ll be sad when it’s over (and am already), although I’ll be staying with Kaye in Berkeley for a few days before moving on to southern California alone. Still, it’s been wonderful, and Kaye has been a great partner, and a special partner given the loss of Bev.
The opportunity to be with Kaye for such a long and intense time has been been fantastic, and further strengthened our bond. I’m very grateful, and grateful also for the chance to be with Kaye during this period of continued grief and mourning.